Linings: All the facts on suits, jacket and coat lining

Looking for a suit for an important event? Is it an outfit for a wedding retinue? Perhaps the jacket is something to keep you cool or warm? Whatever the reason, ensure to take the lining material into account.

maake gives you the lowdown on everything you need to know about how to line garments and the fabric to use to line the item

Which material to use?

The lining is the second layer of material in a finished garment, whether it’s a coat, jacket or other item. One usually stitches this fabric to the outer layer. We use lining to line jackets, a coat, blazer, shirts and dresses. maake creates linings using material made from natural or synthetic fibres.

Material used to line can be lightweight or heavier, depending on the season. Colours for fabric used to line an item of clothing vary, too – from bright and solid to grey and white. 

The most commonly used types of fabric used to line jackets include rPET, viscose and rayon. Natural materials like cotton and satin are also popular.

Why lining is so important

• Blazers and other outer wear pieces for men and women are easier to slip on and off when they have a lining. 
• When you line jackets, they are more wearable and durable.
• The item of clothing lasts longer. This is why manufacturers often like to line a small area, even if the rest of the item has no lining. 
• With a second layer, an item of clothing will be more comfortable.
• An article that you line can hide wadding or padding that will give body to your item of clothing.
• One can create more weight to an article with lining; it will also give it a particular structure.
• Choose a heavyweight material to line an article and make it warm.
• An article with two layers can keep you cool as well. To keep an item of clothing cool to wear we usually don’t fully line it when sewing – this allows both layers of material to breathe and keeps you cool.
• Material used to line can create a better fit for an item of clothing.
• If a material is transparent, using a second fabric underneath will stop it from being transparent.
• Usually, the fabric used to line clothing is smooth and feels luxurious.
• When you line an item of clothing, you hide every seam, the construction and raw edges.
• When choosing lining, take special care, as the fabric can create a vast difference to the structure of the clothing, its comfort and durability, not to mention its style.

Note:

It’s important to see whether your choice of material stretches or not. If you use cotton or wool when sewing the material the clothing won't stretch. In this case, ensure you line it with fabric that also doesn't stretch. If you make the clothes with a stretchy material like jersey, tulle or stretch satin, you must ensure that the fabric you use to line it is also stretchy.

To line or not?

With linings

• An item with full lining: This item is lined on each sleeve, the back and side sections.
• The item has half lining: This implies that you line most of the piece, except for the bottom edges. This will protect the item but won’t create as much weight as when an item has full lining. These often cost more than when they line the items completely, as the manufacturer has to ensure that no seams are showing.
• An article that you line partly: In such a case, we only line part of the item such as the shoulder and each sleeve. 

The difference between lining a garment and when you don't

When you line an item

• When you line a jacket, it means sewing a second, extra layer, which protects the item and gives it more weight and structure.
• As the fabric you use to line the item is separate, you can replace by sewing another, alter or fix it.
• Sewing an extra layer makes the item stronger and more hard wearing.
• Any second layer will make the article warmer.
• By sewing a second layer, you’re adding protection to the inside of the item.
• It will also create a better-fitting piece of clothing.
• The style and structure of the item will change with the extra weight of a second material.
• Above all, an article that requires sewing and lining fits better than one that you don’t.
• Clothing won’t crease as easily if you line it.

When you don't 

• f you don't line the item, it is missing a second layer. So it will be cooler, which makes it a great choice for warm days.
• If you’re sewing no inside lining, this means that the item is lighter.
• A linen piece that you don’t line is a definite plus in summer, as it's so much cooler – and requires less sewing on a machine!
• The fit of the item is more casual and comfortable when it has no lining.

The best material for jacket or coat lining

The most popular materials used to line clothing include silk, acetate, rPET and rayon. People choose this type of fabric for a different reason: some material used as a second layer may cause the piece to drape better, while others are more breathable etc. You also need to take price into consideration when you chooses fabric, as each of the materials available have different prices.

Natural material

1. Silk

This fabric is considered the most luxurious, because the material is soft, breathable, durable and also lightweight. This luxurious material is also smooth. It can be sheer or semi-sheer, transparent, matte or shiny, depending on the weight of the material. We usually use this textile to line winter wear. As they’re expensive and sumptuous, it’s important to take good care of them.

2. Cotton

Cotton is a breathable natural fibre that is washable and soft on the skin. Cotton isn’t a slippery or static material, it creases quickly and can shrink after washing when you hang it out in the sun. Cotton is relatively inexpensive, too.

3. Wool

Best for real winter items, wool is warm, soft, breathable and insulates the body. Choose a material that doesn’t scratch and be careful when washing it. People often dry clean this material.

Synthetic or semi-synthetic material

1. Polyester

This is another great lining material choice for those who want something that is extremely low cost. It’s also hard wearing and easy to look after. Also, people often use this textile to line jackets, as it doesn’t stain or crease easily. It’s soft, glossy and strong and doesn’t stretch or shrink. The material has a lovely lustre, too.

2. Viscose and rayon

Viscose and rayon are popular for a lining. Viscose and rayon fabrics are breathable, soft on the skin, drape well and are free of static. Note: these materials tend to shrink after washing and creases easily. When you wet viscose and rayon, the fibres are weaker.

3. Acetate

This material is not as shiny as rPET and its completely synthetic alternative, it doesn’t crease easily and draws moisture away from the body. Acetate is also a breathable material per metre and relatively inexpensive. However, the material isn’t as absorbent as other materials used to line garments, and is not as hard-wearing.

4. Cupro

This man-made material looks and feels silky. Manufacturers produce cupro from recycled plant-based cellulose fibres that they create out of cotton waste that is treated with chemicals. 

Similar to rayon, this material is semi-synthetic, silky, smooth and drapes beautifully. This versatile lining material is breathable, hard wearing and resistant to static. Often used for woollen garments, this lightweight textile is suitable for year-round wear.

Remember

When choosing or having to replace lining, ensure to think about how stretchable the item is. You need to use a material that stretches with your shell material. So if someone makes your article from stretch material, the lining must also be stretchy. And if you create it using a non-stretch textile, you can use a non-stretch lining, too.

Choosing a textile by weight

• Lightweight: This light material is great to use for blouses, dresses, skirts and pants created from delicate fabrics.
• Medium weight: Slightly heavier material that is extremely versatile. Fabrics in this category include rPET, taffeta, silk, satin etc. These textiles are ideal for lining pants, jackets and skirts.
• Heavyweight: Fabrics with a denser weave are heavier, more hard wearing and warm, making them ideal for winter. These heavy materials include twill, acetate, rPET, silk and satin. Fleece and quilted linings are both excellent choices as they provide extra warmth in very cold climates. 

maake’s textile directory

Lining: This 100% polyester material is the perfect accompaniment to any of our fabrics for lining clothes and accessories. The material has a fantastic print, smoothness and durability. maake uses it as linings for a number of our Saville Row tailor customers.

Faux Silky Satin: 100% poly material that is the ideal alternative to natural silk. Offers a silkier linings choice.

Eco Taffeta:  An Eco Lining option, this material is 100% rPET. It’s a crisp, lightweight material. 
Summer Voile – A lightweight, semi-sheer textile with a soft handle. As its name tells you, it’s ideal for linings for summer clothes.

Eco Fleece: This semi-synthetic material – rPET – is a great choice for winter linings. It’s warm, comfortable, versatile textile that is ideal for lining winter jackets.

Printing on synthetics and recyled polyester

We use no water in maake’s printing process for these materials. All the inks that we use meet Oeko-tex requirements and pass EN71-3 certification.

Read all about textile certification right here.

Choosing textile colours

Important tips to consider when choosing colours for linings:

1. Make sure that whatever colour linings you choose will complement the item of clothing and not overpower it. Your goal should be to create something that is cohesive.
2. If you prefer an elegant, formal item, it’s important to match the colour of the lining material to the itemitself.
3. If the fabric is dark, say black for instance, either match the material exactly, or choose a slightly lighter shade of material to line it with.
4. A lightly coloured item of clothing can either have an exact colour match for lining material, or you could see that the linings complement the colour of the item by using a darker shade.
5. When you choose a colour for sewing your blazer or coat lining, it’s best to look at the material in natural light to see its exact shade and brightness.
6. Bespoke linings are usually chosen considering the wearer’s skin colour.

For a little inspiration on colour choices, read our informative guide on How colours affect our feelings.

Trends to consider

• Inner linings are usually colour-coordinated with or without a sewing pattern to the material of the clothing. But if you decide to choose your own colour or pattern linings, remember: this will make the item more casual. Remember: black is a more formal colour to use.
• In the UK, a classic colour combination for blazers is a black piece with purple lining.
• A light grey item looks exceptional with blue lining, especially for spring. For winter, change it to a darker shade.
• Any blazer that you see with red lining fabric will make an extremely bold statement.
• A collection of colour and pattern that is combined into stripes is particularly fashionable right now.
• Custom lining is a trend this winter so shop for or create a bespoke lining to stand out from the crowd and show the world that it’s uniquely yours.

Be creative

Upload Your Unique Design and include your own unique textile to your list of creations.

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